Things to Do in Seville That Aren't Obvious
It's easy to get Seville wrong. I learned that the hard way on my second morning, when I stood in line for an hour at the Alcázar, only to be told the tickets were sold out. The sun was already beating down, and I realized I'd made the classic tourist mistake: assuming the city's most famous attractions would be as accessible as the tapas bars I'd stumbled upon the night before. I'd been warned about the crowds, but I'd also been warned about the heat, and I'd ignored both. That's why I'm here to tell you: Seville isn't about checking off the big names. It's about getting lost in the narrow streets of Santa Cruz, where the sound of a guitar drifts from a window and the scent of fried garlic and olive oil fills the air. My first real taste of the city came at La Azotea, a tiny tapas bar tucked away on Calle de la Luna, just off the Plaza de España. I ordered the pescaíto frito (fried fish) for 4.50 euros, and it was so fresh, the chef had ju...