Eating in Tallinn: The Places That Actually Deliver
It's easy to get Tallinn wrong. I learned that the hard way when I tried to order a "traditional Estonian meal" at a touristy spot near Town Hall Square and ended up with a plate of overpriced, underwhelming meatloaf. The waiter, with a sigh, said, "You want the real thing? Go to Kõrvaltuba." I followed his advice, and that's when I discovered the city's true culinary soul. On a rainy Tuesday afternoon, I ducked into Kõrvaltuba, a tiny, unassuming restaurant tucked away on Pikk 10, just a five-minute walk from the old town. The place was packed with locals, the air thick with the scent of sizzling pork and pickled herring. I ordered the daily special: a hearty bowl of black bread soup, served with a side of smoked eel and a small glass of local mead. It cost 12 euros, and it was the most flavorful meal I'd had in Estonia. The owner, a woman named Liina, explained that the soup was made with a secret family recipe passed down from her grandmother. ...