Food in Riga: A Practical Guide
It's easy to get Riga wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first night when I wandered into a tourist trap on Brīvības iela, ordered a $15 "traditional" pork schnitzel, and realized I’d just paid for a dish that tasted like it had been reheated for a week. The waiter, sensing my disappointment, shrugged and said, "This is how they do it for foreigners." I left the restaurant feeling like I’d been sold a postcard instead of a meal. But then I found the real Riga—where the food is as unpretentious as the city itself, and the flavors are worth every ruble. My first real meal came at a tiny place called Vecrīga on Āgenskalna iela, just a few blocks from the old town. It’s not on any tourist map, but it’s where locals go for dinner. I ordered the smārži , a Latvian dish of fried pork cutlets served with mashed potatoes and lingonberry sauce. It cost 6.50 euros, and it was the best thing I’ve eaten in months. The pork was crispy on the outside, tender inside, a...